The specialty of the region is probably the “Vin Gris,” a waxy, deep and mouth-coating salmon-tinged rosé that, despite its depth, quivers with acidity. Migot’s version is almost incomprehensible in its combination of texture and power, with lightness and zing. The general blend is about half Pinot Noir and half Gamay.

What makes this wine extraordinary is the density of the palate. Less floral and aromatic, the wine is more reserved, more mineral, almost waxy, as if minerals and acidity had been woven together to create the very texture of the wine. It is direct, linear, structured. Yes, for the rosé drinker the wine is dusted with crushed red fruit, and that too is woven into the wine, but it’s not a sticky or candied or cloying red fruit – it is fresh.

Camille Migot is most certainly serious. He is a young dude; his first vintage was 2013. Migot’s family has been working the vineyards around here for some 13 generations. Thus he has some pretty concrete ideas of what he will and won’t do. The estate, only five hectares in size, is certified organic and the vineyard work is impressive. If these sites aren’t famous, they are loved. You can feel it (and you can see it). Every grape is hand-harvested. In the cellar, Camille is part of the younger generation looking past the “technologies” of the past few decades and returning to something more basic. All fermentations are carried out by natural yeasts. Élevage can be in both stainless steel or neutral oak; bottling is carried out with only the lightest of filtering.