Keep it natural, baby.
Although it opens often a bit reductive (they fermented it with nearly 1/2 whole bunches and covered it with the destemmed mash to provoke something of a semi-carbonic fermentation to begin), the wine opens up and literally unfurls into fine layer after fine layer of bright red to dark purple fruit – all that good shit: sour dark black earth, a Rhône-ish spice, black olive, tension, cranberry, green spice, salt, good energy and mineral on the palate. This wine is fucking good. In certain Austrian-wine-dork circles, this is one of those wines people talk about. Not cheap, but not expensive, not showy, flashy or avant-garde – just fucking good. This is slowly becoming one of those accessible cult wines, like Clos Roche Blanche back in the day. There is something about the accessibility here, the tangible and savory fruit, the saturation of the wine, and its reticent nature, the pull and energy… always a gentle breeze pushing back the sunshine. I dunno – this bottle might be about as perfect as Blaufrankisch gets – not regal or grand like Moric, or… eh… as funked up and janky as some other Burgenland Blau, but just balanced and pure and vibrant.
Joiseph; a new-ish estate founded in 2015 by three friends (Luka Zeichmann, Richard Artner and Xandl Kagl). It started with a tiny vineyard in the village of Jois (thus the name, a playful personification of the village). Joiseph has grown quietly, slowly, and it has quietly become the talk of Burgenland. They produced only miniscule amounts of wine in 2015 (with only about a hectare under vine); it was mostly drank by other Austrian winemakers and people started talking. Here is an estate with elements of nearly everything the Burgenland has offered: aromatic complexity, stature and polish, clarity, as well as a buoyant energy, a certain soil-focus. And while the wines seem to have a card from every deck, they also have an ace: lightness. The wines are, hands down, the most ethereal, delicate wines I’ve ever had from the Burgenland. They are ravishing.
In the past few vintages they have become one of the most famous unknown estates; the most coveted winery in Austria that very few people have heard of. This is an estate that could probably sell everything it makes just to other winemakers in Burgenland.
There is nothing terribly hip about the winery, no cutting-edge design or marketing gimmicks. Just heart-wrenchingly beautiful, delicious wines.
Katie and Denny
Your friendly neighborhood wine shop, focused on small production, organic and biodynamic, natural wines. Connect with us on Instagram for suggestions on your next bottle and to follow along in our downtown Lafayette wine journey.
Visit us to shop in person or order online and pick up in the shop.
210 E. Vermilion Street, Lafayette, LA 70501
Mon, Wed, Thurs
Friday & Saturday
Closed Sunday & Tuesday