The petite village of Sury-en-Vaux, northwest of Sancerre, is the secret source of this extraordinarily character-rich Sauvignon Blanc. It is without question the sort of white wine you’ll find you always need at hand: light in alcohol, pure in flavor and a faithful companion at the table.

Winemaker Jean-Marc Pastou for some 30 years has followed a singular calling to make the most honest and terroir-true Sancerre his few acres will give. His vineyards sit at the highest point in the village, and his older vines (that he planted himself) grow on perfect terroir: the classic chalky stones and flinty soils which give Sancerre its characteristic zip.

The family’s vineyards sit high up on the slope in the village of Sury, northwest of Sancerre. Soils are a mix of sand, “caillottes” (small chalky stones) and flint. Vines are on average 35 years old. Grapes are harvested by hand, and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks; wines are aged in tank on fine lees, and bottled unfined and unfiltered.