The “Steinterrassen” wines are something like Vetter’s “1er Crus” – they are sourced from older vines from within the stone terraces. Vetter has two Sylvaners at this level, each one corresponding to a unique soil type: “Sandstein” or sandstone and “Muschelkalk” or limestone.

Compared to the “Sandstein,” this is much more dusty, with pounded mineral and chalk notes, balsa wood, a delicate nuttiness, a green streak of resin and pine needles. On the palate this is outrageously mineral – it has the signature firmness and rigidity of limestone. The “Muschelkalk” has so much more grip, with a tactile lemon pith. While it is a bit “bigger” (this is 10.5%), it is still so tensile and nervous and cut. Just superb; tasting this next to its “Steinterrassen Sandstein” sibling is just fascinating.

Vetter’s technique is worth noting, as it’s unique. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed without any maceration or crushing and put directly into old/neutral barrels. The wine is topped up while in barrel, but not sulfured. The wines are normally racked only once and then bottled unfined and unfiltered with lower SO2.