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The 2020 Ellergrug “GE” clocks in at 13% alcohol, which is surprising based on its cool-toned fruit and brisk energy. This wine is nearly impenetrable on opening; there is a profound slate minerality, a phenolic grape quality. There is the smell of fermentation and grape stalks and skins, green and fresh. I mean, fawk this just smells like mineral water. These are wines for minimalists. Yet, a few hours in, a ultra-dense and compact citrus fruit rises – mandarin orange citrus oils, phenolic, perfumed, a bit spicy and herbal. On the palate, the wine is just so obviously deep, much deeper and more concentrated than the Gaispfad; this density and compactness is simply outrageous. There is more structure, more grip – almost tannic. It is more gushing; not large in size but deeper and more earthen – slate ground into sand or earth.
After a few hours the fruit emerges on the nose, as described above, but the palate remains just a polished sphere of slate. This wine is fucking beguiling.
If you can, do not decant, yet keep the wine open for as long as you can; it is only more intriguing on days three and beyond.
Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler are as soulful as the vineyards they farm; this is a micro-estate with only 3ha under vine. Konstantin and Alexandra do everything here, working in the vineyards daily. Situated in Traben-Trarbach, many of their vineyards fell into obscurity in the latter half of the 20th century, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The fact is that these vines have not seen the “modernization” that many sites in the Mosel have, which means these cliff-vineyards still have their jutting, ladder-like terraces. On these terraces, they have a high density of very old, un-grafted vines. Weiser-Künstler makes wines exceptional Prädikat wines, but they also make dry wines – dainty angels carved from mineral and slate that feel like porcelain in their weight and purity. As of 2015, they are moving towards complete organic certification.
Denny & Katie
Your friendly neighborhood wine shop and tiny bar, focused on small production wines and conservas. Connect with us on Instagram for suggestions on your next bottle and to follow along in our downtown Lafayette wine journey.
Visit us to shop and hang in person or order online for quick and easy pick up.
210 EAST VERMILION STREET LAFAYETTE, LA 70501
Friday & Saturday
Closed Sunday & Monday